Newport Beach Magazine: October/November 2019
Models on the runway at a DKNY fashion show in 1994 | Photo by Michel Arnaud/Courtesy of FIDM
Fall Fashion Special Section
Making Vintage Vogue
Designers are tapping into the cyclical nature of the fashion industry by highlighting trends from previous decades on modern runways.
Though fashion trends inherently come and go, they always seem to resurface eventually. Today’s runways are teeming with pieces that are reminiscent of years gone by, including style inspirations from the Renaissance all the way up to the 1990s. (Hopefully, the ultralow-rise jeans and disheveled layering of the 2000s stay buried for at least a few more years.)
“Fashion, by nature, is cyclical as designers seek inspiration from the art and style of previous years to make new collections. Trends recycle themselves, typically every 20 years or so, in an updated form,” says Sara Aplanalp, the lead personal shopper and stylist at Fashion Island.
When the first fads emerged is up for debate (though, arguably, it could be animal print or fur, if one considers the prehistoric era), but records confirm that this phenomenon was alive and well in the 14th century—the start of the Renaissance period from which contemporary couturiers are drawing inspiration.
“I think that fashion trends have always been dependent on three things: … disposable income [and] leisure time as well as, throughout history, wanting to keep up with the Joneses,” explains Nick Verreos, co-chair of fashion and costume design at the Los Angeles-based Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, which has a campus in Irvine. “… It has to do with the economy, social change … [and] it involves, usually, the upper classes; they start something and then it just trickles down.”
One thing to remember, regardless of the season, is a famous quote that Aplanalp references: “Fashion changes, but style is forever.”
“If you have a truly well-designed piece, it may fall out of fashion for a time, but it will come back,” Aplanalp says. “Some eras tend to linger for a few seasons when they re-emerge, and others fade away after one season.”
A 1970s-esque look | Photo courtesy of Red Fox Good Clothes
Back to the Future
Today’s fashion pulls inspiration from various decades, but especially the excessive embellishments of the 1980s as well as minimalism from the 1990s, the latter of which Verreos says was a reaction to the extravagance of the previous decade.
“This fall is all about romantic, delicate looks. This trend is balanced by the return of the ’80s power silhouette with a strong shoulder, trends like bold animal prints and standout details like sequins,” Aplanalp says, noting that cocktail dresses are also more glam this season. “… It’s all about florals, high necklines, ruffles and ruching.”
Verreos points to the oversized trend, which is also reminiscent of the 1980s, as well as the emergence of athleisure in the 1990s and early 2000s, including the iconic velvet Juicy Couture tracksuit that was at once a reaction to the casual activewear of the 1990s mixed with a bit of luxe 1980s revival.
“We’re [also] having this, I call, luxury streetwear moment,’ ” Verreos says, noting the prominence of opulent yet casual pieces, such as high-end sneakers. “… It’s like this juxtaposition where the 1% meets the 99% and I think that, because of the times we’re living [in]—the world, politics, the climate—… there’s mirroring of what was going on in the ’80s as well as ’90s … and I think that’s why we see those similar trends coming back.”
Other trends that Verreos has noticed include the midi-length skirts of the 1950s, classic 1970s silhouettes like flared pants, and even going as far back as the Renaissance with bold colors and voluminous shapes.
“The Renaissance is, I call it, the birth of power dressing. So it’s like the Renaissance was the ’80s before the ’80s,” Verreos says, noting that certain elements to look for include capes, prints like Jacquards and brocades, as well as big, poufy sleeves. And he has picked up on this inclusion of a Renaissance-like vibe in various fall fashion shows, from the likes of Gucci, Prada, Marc Jacobs and more.
There are also some trends that shoppers can always count on coming back. “You’re guaranteed to have animal print for fall/winter seasons. You’re guaranteed to have khaki or some sort of olive tone. You’re guaranteed to have leather [as well as] black and white,” Verreos says, explaining that he’s seen these evergreen styles resurface continuously for the past 40 years. “I think those are just … things that have now become part and parcel of seasons, and fashion and designing with that.”
Making It Work
Though it may be tempting to raid your closet (or your mother’s) to pull pieces that were originally worn in these time periods, local stylists and designers advise against it. “We’re having these sort of retro moments, but … the garments are not the same; the silhouettes might be a little similar, but it doesn’t mean you can go into your closet and get those garments back out,” Verreos says. “It’s funny when I see my 17-year-old niece wearing high-waisted, acid-washed, baggy jeans. I’m like ‘Noooooo—did you steal those from my sister?!’ ”
A 1980s-inspired piece | Photo by Getty Images for SIMPLY
And though sometimes trends can blend, such as those from the late 1980s and early 1990s, Verreos advises against putting too many elements in one outfit. “One of the main rules [when designing clothes] is don’t throw everything in the kitchen sink in one outfit and keep it to just two details. … I think the same thing goes for styling yourself,” Verreos says.
So, vintage may be vogue, but looking like you’re heading to a Halloween party after Oct. 31 is certainly not.
“To incorporate the latest trends into your look, I advise wearing one statement piece at a time. Avoid too many bold, trendy pieces in one ensemble, as wearing several can lessen the impact,” Aplanalp suggests. “… You never want to put together a look that resembles a costume, so make the one vintage piece stand out and ground it with something more modern.”
In order to accomplish this, try highlighting one or two specific elements that bring together past styles with modern silhouettes, such as bateau, or boat, necklines and three-quarter length sleeves, a la Jackie Kennedy, both of which pair perfectly with a fitted sheath dress. Aplanalp suggests wearing a vintage-inspired coat with skinny jeans, while Verreos recommends the same type of pants with an oversized jacket that has the sleeves rolled up as well as adding studs to outerwear or T-shirts for a modern edge.
Some of Aplanalp’s top picks for achieving these retro looks are Rebecca Taylor for that romantic, ruched floral dress; Alice & Olivia for the perfect flared pair of pants; and Nordstrom for a bit of sequin and shine. Whether you’re going for a groovy 1970s vibe, a simple 1990s feel or a silhouette that’s reminiscent of the romantic Renaissance period or the extravagant 1980s, there is certainly a throwback trend that will be the perfect fit.
Taste of the Town
Dine Feature: Cutting Through the Noise
Knife Pleat grabs the attention of local diners by exemplifying the culinary artistry of authentic French cuisine.
The Knife Pleat dining room | Photo by Tom Bonner
Touted as one of the best French chefs in Southern California—rightfully so, considering he has found success over the years as executive chef at two restaurants honored with Michelin stars—Tony Esnault has once again teamed up with his wife and business partner, restaurateur Yassmin Sarmadi, to present Knife Pleat. This highly anticipated addition to the culinary lineup at South Coast Plaza debuted over the summer in the third-floor penthouse, where Marché Moderne was previously located before moving to Crystal Cove Shopping Center.
Knife Pleat marks the third restaurant opened by the couple. Previously, they owned Spring as well as Church & State, both renowned French eateries in Los Angeles; the former is now closed and the latter is under new ownership.
Escargot ravioli | Photo by Anne Watson
The duo’s most recent venture is an amalgamation of Orange County’s fashionable lifestyle and Esnault’s expertise with French fare. Even the establishment’s name, knife pleat, pays homage to the sartorial sphere. The term means a fanlike fold of fabric and, as the eatery’s moniker, serves as a play on words intersecting the realms of both fashion and food. This sentiment translates over to the cocktail list, with drink names like John Galliano and Oscar de la Renta. The latter is the most popular concoction, comprising anejo rum, Chinola passion fruit liqueur, fresh passion fruit and lemon to make for a tart, ambrosial sip. For those who prefer wine, there is an extensive selection of European and domestic varietals.
And if you’re looking for the perfect pairing, the five-course tasting menu is just the ticket. Recent course offerings included a yellowtail crudo with an incredible juxtaposition of textures like soft red wine-poached pears and a bit of crunch from puffed quinoa, followed by a sampling of entree options: the mushroom risotto, wild Alaskan halibut, and honey-spiced duck breast and leg confit, with a poached pear and sorbet dessert ending the meal. Optional wine pairings add yet another layer to this exquisite degustation.
Vegetable mosaic | Photo by Anne Watson
On the a la carte menu, diners can choose from shareable plates like the Vegetable Mosaic or escargot ravioli—a unique presentation of a traditional French dish that makes for a light bite with earthy mushrooms and escargot from Burgundy, France. Also check out the caviar options, if you feel so inclined. In addition to the aforementioned mains, those with a more adventurous palate may opt for the braised rabbit pasta with house-made strozzapreti, piquillo peppers, pearl onions, bacon, mustard and tarragon.
The restaurant recently started offering lunch, too. Options on the daytime menu include a grilled octopus appetizers, lobster Caesar and other salads, plus main courses like ocean trout or steak and fries.
The menu changes seasonally, as Esnault works with local farms to procure the freshest ingredients. Pasta and fermented items are all made in house and everything is used—even the fennel stems, which are dried as an aromatic garnish. Additionally, all of the meats are butchered and dry-aged in the kitchen.
Upon entering the restaurant, be sure to sneak a peek of Esnault’s impressive collection of antique kitchen instruments on display near the host stand. Then watch the chefs in action at the bar, which immerses diners in the exhibition kitchen. Or opt to sit in the main dining room with its modern, high-fashion aesthetic or on the open-air patio; there truly is no bad seat in the house.
